Working
with Small Barrels
By:
Jeff Shoemaker
This article orriginally appeared in the
Apr/May 2019 issue of Winemaker Magazine
Oak
wine barrels are a valuable addition to any winemaking set-up. Not
only does a barrel add complexity, aroma, and tannin, it also allows
a gradual, controlled amount of oxygen through the wood staves, which
results in reduced astringency and helps stabilize color (among other
beneficial phenolic reactions that increase sensory properties of the
wine). When we compare our home winery to that of a professional one,
we see that our home operation is a miniature version of the big
guys, and the barrels we use are often no different. Using small
barrels is perfect for home winemakers seeking the benefits of oak
but not making enough to fill a 59-gallon (223-L) behemoth. In
addition, their small stature is manageable, meaning you can pick
them up and carry them around for cleaning (empty of course) and
their footprint is smaller, which is a positive attribute in a home
winery setting. Batches made at home are typically in the 5- to
15-gallon (19- to 57-L) range. Barrels at these volumes are very
affordable compared to their 59-gallon (223-L) counterparts (have you
ever priced a 59-gallon (223-L) French oak barrel? Gee wiz!) However,
with the benefits of using a smaller barrel come a few challenges we
need to overcome in order to take full advantage of what they have to
offer. In this article I will attempt to alleviate any concerns you
may have of using smaller sized barrels. I will go over how to
prepare for your new arrival, how to break it in, and go over other
things we will need to consider to get the most out of this new
addition to the winery.
How
to Choose a Barrel
Each type
of barrel comes in several different sizes to accommodate virtually
any volume being produced. Therefore, when thinking about what barrel
is right for you, one must consider the different flavors and nuances
a barrel provides and worry about the volume of the actual barrel a
little later. There up to 400+ different species of oak and only a
few are considered fit for wine barrels. Of these few, two types are
grown in the six main forests of France known for oak: Limousin,
Vosges, Nevers, Bertranges, Allier, and Tronçais. It is in these six
main forests of which Quercus robur,
known as pedunculate or English oak, and Quercus
petraea, known as Sessile Oak are
grown, with the latter being considered superior for its tighter
grain and contribution of beneficial aromatics, phenols, tannin and
volatile aldehydes. Hungarian and Eastern European forests also
produce Quercus robur
and Quercus petraea
in the famous Zemplen forest of Hungary, with barrel oak also coming
from Romania and Croatia. And last but not least, American oak
(Quercus alba)
which is
grown in the eastern United States,
Missouri, Minnesota, and Wisconsin. Each type oak has its own flavor
profile and oak flavor transfer rates. French oak tends to add dark
chocolate, roasted coffee beans and exotic, savory spices, with a
subtle and slow extraction. Hungarian oak lends vanilla, spice and
caramel-like flavors. Although Quercus
robur and Quercus
petraea are grown in both France and
Hungary, it is the terroir that sets the barrels from each location
apart. In my research I have found the trees grown in the Zemplen
forests with its volcanic soil grow slower and smaller, which makes
for a tighter grain, and a very slow, delicate extraction compared to
the oak growing in France. American oak, with its more intense
approach to its infusion of flavors into the wine will impart
vanilla, aromatic sweetness, roasted coffee, coconut, and dill.
Compared to French and Hungarian oak, American has a more intense
flavor, and a quicker extraction. When it comes to cost, French is at
the high end of the spectrum, American at the bottom and Hungarian
oak somewhere between the two. If you want the French essence at a
fraction of the cost, I recommend Hungarian oak. If you are working
with hybrid grapes, experiment with oak cubes and staves of different
types of oak to determine the best fit for your goals.
What
Size is Right for You
The
oak-surface to wine ratio is a major factor to consider when deciding
the length of time a wine may age in a barrel.
In
a smaller barrels, initially, oak will be imparted into the wine
faster than that of a 59-gallon (223-L) barrel, which has just the
right surface-to-wine ratio for extended aging without the worry of
over-oaking, before the slow controlled oxidation has had its chance
to influence the wine in a positive way. In our case, it will take a
few rotations of wine in and out of the barrel before we can leave
the wine in long enough to make use of the beneficial oxidation
process. In other words, the barrel will need a breaking-in period to
avoid an undesirable level of oak flavor, which would take years of
aging before the wine mellows to a desired taste. American Oak, with
its looser grain, is the quickest to impart its oak influence into
the wine. Whereas French and Hungarian oak (depending on where the
wood was grown and what species), will tend to have a tighter grain
that will influence the wine with its oak flavor over a longer period
of time. However, wood-to-wine ratio should be your primary
consideration over grain tightness. Although the grain may be
tighter, the barrel is still of a small size and will oak faster than
a larger one. That being said, when preparing for the arrival of a
new barrel, you will need to have up to five different batches ready
to rotate in and out of it. This is because the first wine may need
be racked out in a matter of weeks due to how quickly the wine takes
on oak flavoring. After four or five rotations, you can rest easy
and allow the wine to age for extended periods without the fear of
too much oak character. You can even make a few less expensive wines
from kits, juice, or non-premium grapes to go in first so if you
accidentally over oak, you will not be doing so to a batch from
grapes that you spent a year caring for in your own vineyard or paid
a premium for.
With the
oak to wine ratio concept in mind, you can determine the correct
sized barrel that fits your production output to avoid storing it
empty half of the year. If you purchase your grapes annually, simply
get enough fruit to keep the barrel full until next harvest (85–100
lbs. for 5 gallons of finished wine/39–45 kg/19 L), and be sure to
have extra wine for topping. When growing your own grapes, it may be
difficult to project yearly output unless you are documenting and
looking back at harvest data from previous years to determine if what
you are harvesting will be enough. If you feel it may be a light
year, juice pails or additional grapes can be purchased to fill the
void. Evaluate your yearly volumes and
plan accordingly to keep your barrel full and happy. However, if your
wine is in danger of being over-oaked, and you do not have a wine to
immediately follow, storing the barrel empty until another wine is
ready to go is always an option. Simply rinse the barrel several
times, drain, allow to dry, and burn a sulfur stick within barrel and
replace the silicone bung. Be sure to check for the presence of
sulfur monthly and replace as needed. Another option is to store
barrels with a sulfur-citric acid solution, which keeps the barrel
swelled and kept form drying out. This method of storage is recommend
for well broken-in barrels as the solution will leach out some of the
precious oak flavor from a new barrel. Monitoring and caring for your
broken-in, but empty, barrel is incredibly important if you plan to
continue use of this significant tool in your home winery. Improper
storage and lack of intervention can cause contamination of the
barrel and spoilage of any wine that eventually goes into it. It is
highly recommended to keep wine in the barrel at all times. Otherwise
there are options for empty storage if needed.
For
an in-depth look at barrel care please read Barrel Care Techniques
by: Daniel Pambianchi
https://winemakermag.com/technique/84-barrel-care-techniques
In
an effort to maintain a fully topped barrel,
you will also need extra wine for topping as it evaporates. This
evaporation is known as the “Angels Share,” which creates an
ullage (head space) in the barrel that needs to be replenished every
so often to prevent oxidation and the growth of surface yeasts that
could impact the flavor negatively or even ruin the wine permanently.
Depending on the humidity of the room, the barrel may require up to
500 mL of wine every two to four weeks to maintain a properly
topped-up barrel. Strive to maintain a
cellar temperature of 55–60 °F (13–16 °C) and a humidity level
of 60–70%. When humidity levels fall below 50% then wine
evaporation losses are higher, and levels above 85% are the perfect
storm for mold growth. I realize this is home winemaking and
conditions are seldom perfect, but do your best to maintain these
levels for best results. In the winter when humidity levels are low,
use a humidifier that allows the user to set the desired humidity
level to keep it consistent. High summer temperatures and humidity
levels can be kept in check with an air conditioner and/or
dehumidifier.
At
cooler temperatures, aging is slowed. At higher temperatures there
could be an imbalance in the ratio at which oak compounds are being
extracted along with the rate of microbial spoilage becomes
accelerated. Be sure to purchase a thermometer and hygrometer so you
know what is going on in your barrel storage room at all times.
Another thing to consider is for the
first two months you will need to monitor the absorption rate of the
barrel and top up at least twice a week. As the barrel soaks up a
portion of the wine, topping up will be less frequent and can be
performed once a month or thereabouts. A good rule of thumb is to
have at least 10% more wine than fits in the barrel for topping wine,
or you can top up with a similar wine you already have bottled from a
previous vintage. Even store bought wine can be used as long
potassium sorbate is not an ingredient (as it would cause off flavors
with wines that have undergone malolactic fermentation).
Before
we get our new barrel, we need to have a few things ready. As
mentioned above, I recommend up to five batches of wine ready to
rotate through the barrel as the first couple wines will obtain oak
flavoring rather quickly. The barrel will need a cradle to sit in so
it is up off of the floor and not rolling around. There are plenty of
pictures on the internet to work from to build your own, or one can
be purchased from the barrel seller, often with wheels attached for
easy mobility around the winery for racking operations. Or the barrel
can sit on a workbench or the floor with four wedges cut from 2” x
4” lumber in the front and back on each side to prevent it from
rolling and to keep it elevated a bit off the floor. Typically your
barrel will come with a wooden bung. These do not seal well and I
urge you to purchase a silicone bung. These achieve an effective seal
and are very durable. Be sure the room you are storing the barrel in
is close to the recommended temperature and humidity levels outlined
earlier.
Working
with a Small Barrel
When
I was researching the use of small barrels, I was very concerned
about an aging schedule. How long will I leave the wine in the
barrel? What if I over-oak my wine? Will the wine even be in the
barrel long enough to benefit from the slow ingress of oxygen? While
all of these are valid questions, one must realize each wine is
different and will require a different aging regimen.
When
the first and second wine go in, a good guideline to follow is one
WineMaker’s Technical Editor Bob Peak's has stated in previous
articles: One week per gallon (4 L) rule. This means for a 10-gallon
(38-L) barrel, the wine can stay in for approximately 10 weeks. This
time frame is definitely not enough time for any sort of oxygenation
effects to take place (at first). But as we rotate more batches of
wine through the barrel, each batch can kick its shoes off and stay a
little longer than the last, as is the case with another schedule
guideline that was recommended to me by a couple professional
winemakers: The first wine may be in the barrel for just 8 to 10
weeks. The next wine could then stay double the previous time at 16
to 20 weeks and the next 32 to 40 weeks and so on. These time frames
should assist you in determining how long to leave each wine in and
prepare for how much will be required for topping the barrel off to
keep it full at all times. According to Daniel Pambianchi’s
“Techniques in Home Winemaking,” the first one or two wines aged
in the barrel will be higher in tannin. The proceeding wines will be
of higher quality because the wine can age longer as tannins are
transferred from the barrel to the wine at a slower rate. Pambianchi
goes on to recommend leaving a portion of the first couple
barrel-aged batches un-oaked to be blended later to adjust for the
right level of oak flavor. This is wise in case the wine
unintentionally gets too much oak flavor. The biggest hurdle to jump
over is the break-in period, which is all that is needed in order to
allow wines an extended stay in a smaller barrel. This goes for
5-gallon (19-L) barrels up to other home winemaking sizes too. Using
a smaller barrel is not difficult, it is just different.
Tasting
for your Desired Oak Level
When
using a new oak barrel for the first few batches of wine, it is
important to smell and taste the wine weekly. As mentioned earlier,
once a few wines have taken up residence in the barrel, you can taste
it when you top-up (every four weeks) to see how the wine is
developing and if the level of oak is to your liking. I prefer to
slightly over-oak before I remove the wine from the barrel. Once
bottled, the oak flavor will integrate into the wine over time and an
oak level you were happy with 6 months ago will no longer have the
same impact it once did. Over-oaking the wine slightly ensures that
some of that oak essence fades to a sweet spot. Just know this
determination of oak is completely up to your palate and what you
prefer.
Tips
•
Once the barrel has gone
neutral, meaning the barrel has no oak flavor left to offer, oak
cubes can be used. This enables you to use any type of oak while
taking advantage of the slow oxidation affects. In addition, the
concern of over-oaking is past.
•
5 to 9 gallon (19-23L) barrels
may be lifted to an elevated work bench for gravity racking. 10
gallon (38L) barrels and up will require a pump to rack the wine out
as it will be far too heavy to lift for gravity racking. Vacuum pumps
work well as do diaphragm and impeller pumps. If you have a Buon Vino
Mini-Jet or Super-Jet, these too can be used for racking operations.
Be sure to have a racking plan before you get your barrel.
•
Topping wine can be conveniently
kept in a Cornelius keg under the protection of nitrogen or argon.
When it is time to top off the barrel, simply fill it with the
plastic cobra tap connected to the keg. I recommend oxygen barrier
tubing to prevent oxygen ingress affecting the wine, as is the case
with vinyl tubing.
•
When rinsing or cleaning out
your barrel, avoid the use of chlorine in your rinse water by using
an in-line carbon water filter. The chlorine can contribute to the
production of 2,4, 6-trichloroanisole (TCA, or cork taint) and some
molds. You can even use filtered water when mixing sulfite powder and
other additives before adding it to the barrel.
•
If you are getting serious
enough in your winemaking that you are getting a barrel, I highly
recommend the purchase of a sulfite testing kit. Whether it be an
Aeration Oxidation kit, or the Vinmetrica unit, testing sulfite
levels as your wine ages in the barrel gives you a huge advantage and
allows you to add the exact amount of sulfite needed to protect the
wine from oxidation, rather than guessing and adding too much or too
little. These sulfite testing kits provide clear instructions and
everything you need to get started. You do not even need a degree in
chemistry to perform and interpret the tests results.
At
first, I was afraid to get a barrel, most notably the smaller
version, especially with all of the horror stories you can read
online of folks over-oaking their wines and barrels being a major
pain to maintain and take care of. There are even stories of folks
oxidizing their wine because they did not monitor sulfite levels or
experienced other issues. However, if you monitor the wine’s
progress closely and take care of your equipment, after a brief
break-in period, small barrels are easy to work with, affordable, and
the benefits far outweigh any potential risks associated with aging
wine in them. After a while, maintaining and working with small
barrels becomes second nature and any anxiety you had fades away.
Further
Reading
I
urge you to read up on barrel storage, maintenance, and signs of
microbial infections to address any potential issues before they get
out of hand. Below is recommended reading for barrel care,
maintenance and what could go wrong.
-Techniques
in Home Winemaking by: Daniel Pambianchi. Chapter 7 Page:189
-Oak
Barrel Care Guide By: Tristan Johnson
-Oak
Information Paper By: Shea A.J. Comfort
https://morewinemaking.com/web_files/intranet.morebeer.com/files/oakinfopaper09.pdf
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