These recipes encourage the use of a hydrometer or refractometer to measure the specific gravity (sg) rather than suggesting an amount of sugar to be added. This is a more precise method of sugar addition and ensures you're adding the correct amount. The refractometer is nice because you only need a few drops of must to determine the sugar levels instead of having to coarse filter a must sample to use a hydrometer. If you don't have a vineyard and the need for a refractometer other than to test sugar samples in wine musts then stick to the hydrometer.
I also encourage the use of an acid testing kit which can be purchased from your local home-brew shop. Another important tool is a pH meter. This helps to determine the effectiveness of sulfite in your wine and can double-duty as a titratable acidity tester. A pH meter can also help to make sure your wine is in range for a healthy fermentation. Typical ranges are 3.1 to 3.7. Although I make some wines with a pH of 2.9 up to 3.9, I tend not to use chemical means to raise my pH such as calcium carbonate. Being able to test for acid levels allows you to fine tune your must rather than just blindly adding a tablespoon or so of acid blend. Speaking of acid blend, I highly recommend you forgo the use of acid blend and stick to tartaric acid. Citric acid can cause problems down the road along with malic acid. It's just safer to stick with tartaric acid and it is the industry standard.
In these recipes below I recommend an acid level to shoot for (example 0.65% titratable acidity.) Typically with fruit wines, the acid will be high but are usually back-sweetened to make the wine palatable. I approach these wines in a way that I test and record the acid levels, but rarely do anything about it if it's high because I balance the acidity with sugar. If the acid is too low which would make the wine taste flabby, I won't hesitate to raise the acid level to get it into range.
A word on sulfites.. It is a good thing, do not be afraid to use it. You can make a wine sulfite free but you leave your wine wide open to spoilage and potential problems. Plus, sulfite is a natural byproduct of fermentation. So even when you don't add it intentionally, it's still in there! Although, it is not enough to add any protection so don't go getting ideas. I know some folks are apprehensive about to using sulfite, but by using sulfite powder and a free-sulfite tester, you can add exactly what you need without adding too much. This is why the powder form is great, it an be weighed precisely and added to the must instead of just tossing a campden tablet which can add up over time and give you a pretty high total sulfite level in the wine which can be detected by sensitive palettes. I mention levels to shoot for, but if you have a pH meter and sulfite analyzer, you'll now exactly how much sulfite to add to fit your wine.
To test for sulfite content in your wine you have some options. The two I have used is the aeration oxidation method. This is available in a kit from Morewine. These tests take around 15 minutes each and you need to determine a color change to figure out your result.
Another method is the Vinmetrica So2 tester. Each test takes about 2 minutes and you count mililiters of titrant and do a short equation to determine your levels. Which is a lot easier than looking for a color change. I prefer this method over the above method because I don't always have time to wait 15 minutes for each test.
To figure out how much sulfite to add while considering pH and other factors you can use Fermcalc or the Winemaker Magazine Sulfite Calculator. Both are very useful and is a great reason to have a computer in the home winery.
But.. There is always a but! If you just want to dabble in wine making, you can forget the pH meter and acid tester, but a hydrometer is pretty important in my opinion. But then again I think all tools mentioned above are important. Either way, just do what you can!
While I wait for the pectic enzyme to do its thing, I feel it's important to make a yeast starter. I'm sure you've heard "I just sprinkle it on top and never had any problems." You could go this route, but fermentation takes longer to take off and the yeast are shocked from temperature differences between the must temp. and ambient temps. . Making a yeast starter or at the very least, hydrating your yeast before pitching into the must is paramount. When hydrating, simply follow the manufacture's instructions. To make a yeast starter, hydrate your yeast, once the hydration period is finished (usually 15 minutes,) take a 50ml sample of juice from the must and add it to the yeast slurry, cover with tin foil, which conforms to virtually any container to keep fruit flies out. I allow this slurry to sit for an hour before adding another 50 ml's. This mini-fermentation can go on for awhile but I generally allow it to build up for two hours before I pitch it into the must. Be sure to check on it and stir it occasionally because it likes to foam up from all the excitement. You could also use Go-Ferm which is a nutrient to get the yeast fermentation-ready. Adding must to the yeast hydration slurry does a couple things. Not only does it get the yeast used to its future environment, it also gets the yeast into the correct temperature range before it goes into the must. To make sure the temperatures are in range, simply take the temp. of the must and yeast starter and make sure they are within 18F of each other. Add the starter to the must and stir well with a sanitized spoon.
Yeast nutrient is a very important addition to prevent hydrogen sulfide infections (rotten egg smell,) and help the yeast finish out the fermentation as their environment becomes toxic to them. I add half of the prescribed nutrient at the first signs of fermentation (it's thought that adding before the yeast get a foot-hold, other bad microbes could use the nutrients to multiply in your must before the yeast can use it. ) I then add the other half when fermentation is 1/3 of the way done. Any later and the yeast can't utilize the nutrients and anything left over could be used by baddies after fermentation is done.
Must Bag vs. No Must Bag I prefer not to use a must bag because I enjoy punching a cap over poking a bag. Either way is fine, but these recipes mention punching a cap. If you use the bag, just poke at it and keep it saturated throughout primary fermentation.
I'll add more and more recipes as I prove they make a good wine along with any tweaks that may needed to improve their success.
Black Raspberry Wine From:
1 Gallon
4lbs of Berries
Sugar- sg to 1.090
Acid range 0.65%-0.75% TA
Pectic Enzyme (follow manufacture's instructions)
Yeast Nutrient (follow manufacture's instructions)
Sulfite
Opti-red (optional, adds body to the wine)
Process: Sanitize all equipment with your favorite sanitizer. Place berries in primary fermenter and crush, add water and stir to breakup any clumps of berries. Add 25ppm of sulfite or one crushed campden tablet then stir to ensure the sulfite is well integrated into the must. Contrary to popular belief you can add pectic enzyme 30 minutes later as long as the sulfite is well mixed into the must. Allow at least 8 hours for the pectic enzyme to work before pitching the yeast. Pitch your yeast starter and at the first signs of fermentation, add your yeast nutrient according to the instructions, or stagger your additions as mentioned above. At this time you can also add opti-red if you've chosen to do so. Once the cap has risen it's time to punch it down twice daily and stir the must. Once the sg has reached 1.030-1.040 you can separate the juice from the pulp by gentle pressing, being careful not to extract harsh tannin from the seeds. Taste often throughout the pressing process. Transfer juice to a vessel with an airlock attached while leaving head-space for foaming from fermentation. In 24 hours, rack the wine of the gross lees into another vessel and allow fermentation to finish. Once you see signs of fermentation slowing, start checking the sg frequently (every other day.) Once the sg has reached 1.000 or below, you may rack it into another vessel and fully top it up and add another 25 ppm of Sulfite or campden tablet.
Allow the wine to age at least 8 months, checking sulfite throughout the aging process. This wine is best back-sweetened. It tends to be a high acid wine that is well balanced with sugar additions. When adding sugar to a wine, also add potassium sorbate to prevent renewed fermentation in combination with sulfite. Age 6-12 months in the bottle before tasting.
This wine can also be kegged and carbonated to be turned into a sparkling wine too!
Blueberry Wine From:
1 Gallon
4lbs-6lbs of Berries
Grape Juice Concentrate 11oz. (adds color and vinous character)
Sugar- sg to 1.090
Acid Range 0.60%- 0.70% TA
Pectic Enzyme (follow manufacture's instructions)
Yeast Nutrient (follow manufacture's instructions)
Sulfite
Opti-red (optional, adds body to the wine)
Process: Sanitize all equipment with your favorite sanitizer. Place berries in primary fermenter and crush, add water and stir to breakup any clumps of berries. Add 25ppm of sulfite or one crushed campden tablet then stir to ensure the sulfite is well integrated into the must. Contrary to popular belief you can add pectic enzyme 30 minutes later as long as the sulfite is well mixed into the must. Allow at least 8 hours for the pectic enzyme to work before pitching the yeast. Pitch your yeast starter and at the first signs of fermentation, add your yeast nutrient according to the instructions, or stagger your additions as mentioned above. At this time you can also add opti-red if you've chosen to do so. Once the cap has risen it's time to punch it down twice daily and stir the must. Once the sg has reached 1.030-1.040 you can separate the juice from the pulp by moderate pressing. Blueberries stand up to fermentation quite well, the recommended sg to press at can go lower before pressing. Transfer juice to a vessel with an airlock attached while leaving head-space for foaming from fermentation. In 24 hours, rack the wine of the gross lees into another vessel and allow fermentation to finish. Once you see signs of fermentation slowing, start checking the sg frequently (every other day.) Once the sg has reached 1.000 or below, you may rack it into another vessel and fully top it up and add another 25 ppm of Sulfite or campden tablet.
Allow the wine to age at least 8 months, checking sulfite throughout the aging process. This wine is best back-sweetened. It tends to be a high acid wine that is well balanced with sugar additions. When adding sugar to a wine, also add potassium sorbate to prevent renewed fermentation in combination with sulfite. Age 6-12 months in the bottle before tasting.
Cranberry Wine
1 Gallon
3 lbs of berries (which is Four 12oz bags)
7 pints water
Pectic Enzyme
Sugar s.g. to 1.095
Yeast nutrient
Sulfite
Potassium Sorbate
opti-red (optional)
1/2 Pint Of Red Grape Concentrate
K1-V1116 Yeast From Lalvin
Process: Sanitize all equipment with your favorite sanitizer. The berries need to be crushed, this is hard to do because the berries are so hard, so they can be lightly chopped in a food processor. The berries only need to be cut in half at the very least; the yeast will do the rest. Once berries are chopped up, add water, grape concentrate and berries to the primary fermenter and add 25ppm of sulfite or one campden tablet. Bring sugar up to an s.g. of 1.095 and stir well. After about 30 minutes add pectic enzyme and allow it to work for at least 8 hours before pitching your yeast starter. Once your yeast has been added and you notice signs of fermentation, your first yeast nutrient additions can be made along with opti-red. Ferment to dryness at around 1.000 sg and punch cap twice daily, being sure to add your second yeast nutrient addition 1/3 of the way through fermentation or at around 1.060 sg. Once fermentation is close to 1.000 you can press the fruit and transfer the juice to a vessel with an airlock attached while leaving head-space for foaming from fermentation. In 24 hours, rack the wine of the gross lees into another vessel and allow fermentation to finish. Once you see signs of fermentation slowing, start checking the sg frequently (every other day.) Once the sg has reached 1.000 or below, you may rack it into another vessel and fully top it up and add another 25 ppm of Sulfite or campden tablet.g. Age 1 year in the bottle. During this time there will be periodic racking and monitoring of the sulfite levels.
This wine has a high acid level and needs to be back sweetened to balance the acidity. As always, use potassium sorbate when sweetening wines in combination with sulfite.
Red Raspberry Wine From:
1 Gallon4lbs of Berries
7 pints of water
Sugar- sg to 1.090
Acid range 0.65%-0.75% TA
Pectic Enzyme (follow manufacture's instructions)
Yeast Nutrient (follow manufacture's instructions)
Sulfite
Opti-red (optional, adds body to the wine)
Process: Sanitize all equipment with your favorite sanitizer. Place berries in primary fermenter and crush, add water and stir to breakup any clumps of berries. Add 25ppm of sulfite or one crushed campden tablet then stir to ensure the sulfite is well integrated into the must. Contrary to popular belief you can add pectic enzyme 30 minutes later as long as the sulfite is well mixed into the must. Allow at least 8 hours for the pectic enzyme to work before pitching the yeast. Pitch your yeast starter and at the first signs of fermentation, add your yeast nutrient according to the instructions, or stagger your additions as mentioned above. At this time you can also add opti-red if you've chosen to do so. Once the cap has risen it's time to punch it down twice daily and stir the must. Once the sg has reached 1.030-1.040 you can separate the juice from the pulp by staining the fruit through a mesh bag and allowing wine to drip instead of pressing. (Once these particular berries have been fermented, they are in pretty bad shape and do not tolerate pressing very well.) Transfer juice to a vessel with an airlock attached while leaving head-space for foaming from fermentation. In 24 hours, rack the wine of the gross lees into another vessel and allow fermentation to finish. Once you see signs of fermentation slowing, start checking the sg frequently (every other day.) Once the sg has reached 1.000 or below, you may rack it into another vessel and fully top it up and add another 25 ppm of Sulfite or campden tablet.
Allow the wine to age at least 8 months, checking sulfite throughout the aging process. This wine is best back-sweetened. It tends to be a high acid wine that is well balanced with sugar additions. When adding sugar to a wine, also add potassium sorbate to prevent renewed fermentation in combination with sulfite. Age 6-12 months in the bottle before tasting.
This wine can also be kegged and carbonated to be turned into a sparkling wine too!
Pear Wine
5 Gallons
Pears are locally available to me growing here and there, and no one seems interested in them. I usually pick about 500lbs yearly from these local trees and make an awesome sparkling pear wine with them. This wine really benefits from a cool fermentation as not to lose those delicate aromatics (55F-60F) . Place your fermenter in a large tub filled with water and add ice bombs to the water ( frozen 1 gallon jugs) and replace as needed. Be sure to check on the temperature of the fermenting wine frequently.
120 lbs of pears (Bartlett, seckel etc..)
Sugar s.g. to 1.085Pectic Enzyme (maybe even a double dose)
Yeast nutrient
Sulfite
Acid to 0.65%-0.75% (depending on your end game - sweet or dry)
Ec-1118 Yeast by Lalvin
Opti-White (optional, but really makes a different in the body of this pretty light wine)
Harvest your pears and allow them to sit in a paper bag or cardboard box for a 7-10 days to soften up. Pears are not ready to be worked with right after harvest. Cull them daily and any that are ready for the crusher can be placed in the fridge to slow their ripening processes down so the rest can catch up.
Once the pears are ready, they can be crushed up and immediately pressed for the juice. It takes around 120lbs of pears for 5 gallons of finished wine (crazy, right?) Once the pears have been pressed and you have your juice, add 30ppm of sulfite. Test for acid and chances are you'll be adding some tartaric acid to get the acid level in range to the suggested level above. Raise the s.g. to 1.085 and stir well. Once the sulfite and sugar has been well incorporated you can add pectic enzyme. 8 hours after your pectic enzyme addition, your yeast starter can be added. At the first signs of fermentation, add your yeast nutrient according to the instructions, or stagger your additions as mentioned above. At this time you can also add opti-white if you've chosen to do so. Stir the must twice daily and be sure to add your second nutrient addition at 1/3 of the way through fermentation or at around 1.060. Once the s.g has reached 0.990-1.000 you can now transfer your wine into a clean container and attach an airlock. Once fermentation is finished add 25 ppm of sulfite and age 1 year while monitoring sulfite levels and periodically racking the wine. Once the wine is clear and stable, you can keg it and carbonate it or bottle it still. This wine is good back-sweetened or dry, but this will depend on where you acid levels are. As always with sweetening a wine, be sure to use potassium sorbate in combination with sulfite.
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